From impressionist masters, to Cubism and Dada, to contemporary impressionism, art over the past 100 to 150 years has contributed to how modern quilt artists create. These movements have all pushed conversations forward, in a unique combination of artist creativity, integration of techniques that are often inspired by evolving technologies, and corresponding social and political influences. This timeline is a brief overview of these major art forces that have brought fabric collage to where it is today.
Traditional Impressionism
While impressionism began in France in the 1800s, the visual idea of modern impressionism has evolved significantly. Traditional impressionism was characterized by artists like Degas, Monet, van Gogh and Renoir, who – at that time – were considered rebels. They used techniques to paint subjects that was perceived by the art world to be incomplete.
The most impactful technique of this movement was brushstrokes that were thick and not blended. The way these artists applied these brushstrokes was a concept called broken color, creating an illusion of mixed paint because of the expert placement of value to create highlights, mid tones, and shadows. It’s a layering technique that allows colors to show through. Brushstroke shape, size, and direction all contributed to movement in the composition.
This is a phenomenal technique for fabric collage because it works within the limitations fiber artists have. Limited palettes, the physical inability to blend, and the need for layering are the exact tools fabric collage artists must work with. Brushstrokes can be translated to fabric, color and value choices are limited to fabrics available, and the placement to develop the image are done with small pieces that are layered. It’s not surprising that impressionist style and fabric collage are best friends.
How to create like traditional impressionists
- Collage using small pieces of fabric that are cut in organic shapes.
- Layer, layer, layer with varying hues, shades and tones of color.
- Place complementary colors next to each other.
- Use broken color, applying a variety of colors and values within an area.
- Place fabric pieces intentionally in the direction you want the eye to travel to create dynamic movement.
- Don’t overthink, just keep adding layers. Impressionists often painted en plein air so they had to work more quickly because they were outside and time spent on the painting was dictated by weather and changes in light.
Victorian Collage
In the late 1800s and early 1900s, photocollage became popular. Photocollage used actual photographs and photorealistic illustrations cut and pasted to create entirely new scenarios. This could be attributed to two main things: 1. the accessibility of photography, from cartes-de-visite, or small photographic calling cards, to Kodak film cameras becoming available to the public in 1888, and 2. political influences like the role of women in society being questioned during the industrial revolution.
Victorian photocollage was frequently done by aristocratic women for personal use. There were also religious and commercial purposes for this style of collage, as seen in the artist John Bingley Garland’s blood collages and advertising ephemera created to promote a variety of products.
How to create Victorian photocollage
- Use black and white or sepia toned photographs or photorealistic illustrations.
- Print photographs on fabric and incorporate them into a collage design.
- Choose printed fabrics with newspaper style print, words or iconography.
Cubism and Dada
Another page in art history that was influential for collage happened in the early 1900s. Cubism (think Picasso) broke down subject matter into simplified geometric shapes. Dadaism springboarded from an anti-everything political rebellion to deconstruct the notion of “art”. Both were the introduction of collage to the art world as acceptable technique.
Cubists were the artists that brought collage to modern art as a technique, notably Picasso’s 1912 Still Life with Chair-Caning, and artists quickly moved to using “papier colle”, or pasted paper. Art was no longer restricted to pencil, pastel, or paint. Paper, found objects, and repurposed printed material became the medium.
How to create like Cubists
- Layer, literally. This art form used bits and pieces of paper and other materials glued in layers.
- Avoid realistic representation. Geometric chaos defined these movements; don’t be afraid to add abstract elements.
- Use bold colors, relying on a monochromatic color scheme.
- Cut geometric pieces: squares, triangles, uneven polygons.
- Choose bold fabric prints to add a variety of textures.
Art Through Technology
Pop art during the 1960s used a silk screen technology to propel collage forward. Warhol and other pop artists took advanatgae of commercial art technology to layer bold colors of photographic images. Again, a time of political turmoil, these artists challenged the art world vision of “What is art?” This technique moved into an area of collage because there was an organic element that was desired.
Within just a few decades, collage became digital, and soon, artists could create a seemingly endless variety of images created from a cut and paste combination of sources. Technologies have changed over the past few decades. Now, there are several applications that are the standard for digital collage, specifically because they have tools that allow for precise selection and cut and paste using layers.
How to create digital collage
- Collect a variety of digital images. (If you plan to show or sell your digital collage or anything resulting, please consider using copyright-free or public domain images, images purchased from artists for commercial use, or images you have created yourself).
- Choose a digital tool. Adobe Photoshop and Procreate are both ideal for digital collage art. Free tools like Gimp and Photopea have similar functionality.
- Build the collage in layers. Begin with the background, then create new layers with different elements.
- Use masking or lasso tools to isolate parts of images to “cut”. Paste these into new layers then move them to place.
- Play with color and gradient editing.
- Learn how to use layers.
Fabric Collage in Art Quilts
Contemporary fabric collage is a culmination of over a century of inspiration, combined with a traditional love of fabric quilting. It is sort of “anything goes” as long as the physical medium allows.
In my lifetime, I have seen fabric collage evolve into what we are seeing in the modern art quilt world. I recall the patched and hand stitched applique designs on clothing, popular during the 1970s, with often whimsical patterns like mushroom, abstract shapes, or colorful flowers. Over the decades, mixed media became more incorporated. Embellishments like beads, buttons, decorative stitching, varying fabric types, lace, sequins and more all added texture and movement that contributed to the message.
Fabric collage artists like Faith Ringold and Bisa Butler have brought narrative perspectives that many art quilters aspire to when creating their own work. Quilt artists like Susan Carlson, Susan Brubaker-Knapp and Laura Heine are active art quilt leaders today that significantly impact the trajectory of fabric collage. Many more wonderful fiber artists have voices, techniques, and perspectives that contribute to the rich world of art quilts. None of the artist’s mentioned above have artwork currently in the public domain. Please search for images from these artists!
How to create fabric collage art quilts
- Decide on a subject, collect fabric, cut and glue fabric pieces to form the image.
- Create for yourself, choose subjects you love, and use techniques you enjoy.
- Begin your journey by exploring what you want to express through the fabric collage art you make.
- Don’t limit yourself by being afraid to try different techniques.
- Experiment and play for the pleasure of it.
- Create. Often.
